Former King of Cambodia dies at age 89…

He was many things to the Cambodia he helped navigate through half a century of war and genocide – revered independence hero, ruthless monarch and prime minister, communist collaborator, eccentric playboy, avid filmmaker. Most of all, perhaps, Cambodia’s former King Norodom Sihanouk was a cunning political survivor who reinvented himself repeatedly throughout his often flamboyant life.

Often at the centre of a tumultuous period in Cambodian history, King Sihanouk died in Beijing on Monday at the age of 89.

His son, Prince Thomico, said that the former king, who quit the throne in 2004, was brought to the hospital and died shortly after… “It’s painful. I am full of sorrow… “ and then added, “King Sihanouk did not belong to his family, he belonged to Cambodia and to history.” The former king had been staying at his Beijing residence since January. He would have been 90 on October 31.

“The royal government of Cambodia will bring his body from the People’s Republic of China to Phnom Penh to hold a funeral at the Royal Palace according to our traditions,” said a government announcement read out on Cambodian television.

King Sihanouk had fought a long battle with health problems that dogged his final years, including cancer, diabetes, hypertension and heart problems. Despite abdicating in favour of his son Sihamoni, the ex-monarch remained hugely popular in his country. His portrait still adorns public buildings and many Cambodian homes, and he used his website to communicate with the outside world.

In a message in January, he said he wanted to be cremated upon his death and have his ashes kept in an urn inside the Royal Palace, reversing an earlier wish to be buried.

Cambodians woke to the news of their former monarch’s demise on the final day of the annual festival for the dead, known as Pchum Ben, when most people leave the capital Phnom Penh to spend time with their families in the countryside. Dead ancestors are believed to emerge to walk the earth during this time, and they are honoured with prayers and food offerings at Buddhist pagodas. Prince Thomico said he believed Cambodians would find it “significant” that King Sihanouk had died at the conclusion of the 15-day festival.

In eastern Kampong Cham province, local people expressed their sorrow over the former monarch’s death. “He was a good king and watched over the country and the Cambodian people. I liked him very much,” said 94-year-old Ching Sivheang.

King Sihanouk was placed on the throne in 1941 at the age of 18 by French colonial authorities. Twelve years later he gained Cambodia’s independence and shortly after quit the throne for the first time in favour of his father Prince Norodom Suramarit to pursue a career in politics.

King Sihanouk served as premier half a dozen times, repeatedly leaving the post with a characteristic flash of angry theatre over perceived slights, until finally becoming “head of state” following the death of his father in 1960. He was toppled in a U.S.-backed coup by one of his own generals, Lon Nol, in 1970. King Sihanouk then aligned himself with communist guerrillas Khmer Rouge. The hardline communist movement used him as a figurehead as they seized power before putting him under house arrest in the royal palace with his family during their 1975-79 reign of terror.

King Sihanouk later condemned the Khmer Rouge, whose bloody rule left up to two million people dead. He regained the throne in 1993, having helped push for peace.

A “taste” of Palawan

Returned last week from a lovely trip to the Philippines…. Well, honestly Manila was not the highlight, but my week in Palawan was great! Highlights there are the Underground River (one of the ‘new 7 natural wonders of the world’), and of course the beautiful area of El Nido, made up of dozens of limestone islands, dramatic cliffs and karst formations, secluded beaches and some wonderful resorts, located at the north end of Palawan.

For a bit of a taste of life in Palawan, below is an excerpt from a message home during my travels about the Underground River and for those who know me, yet another adventure in my continuing fascination with the wild and wonderful world of strange foods…
“…The big attraction here at Sabang is the ‘Underground River’ and I did the trip there today which was pretty amazing. You enter the river through the mouth of a cave, travelling in small boats with six or eight people in them, along with a guide and a strong spotlight (attached to a car battery…). The river itself is 8 kms long, flowing through this beautiful cave system filled with fabulous rock formations, stalagmites and stalactites, and although we only travelled 1.5 kms it was pretty cool…. pitch black, at times narrow, and at other times within massive caves where the top of the cave must have been ten stories high… we had to wear plastic helmets while in the boat, possibly to protect ourselves from hitting our heads on some of the low outcroppings of rock, but even more useful to provide a little protection in the parts of the cave where there is a continual light, cold rain that falls… of course it is not really rain, but rather water that has penetrated through the forest and root systems of the trees on the mountain above… well, that’s where about 90% of it comes from… the other 10% is actually falling guano… that’s the polite way of saying that is literally raining bat shit… so particularly in those parts of the caves, when looking up in jaw-dropping awe at the fabulous formations above, it’s a good idea to keep your mouth shut!

While on the gross theme, after the cave trip, and while having lunch back here at a small beach restaurant with a group of mostly older Philippina women – all quite funny and giggling most of the day – I took advantage of the opportunity to buy a bowl of ‘tamilok’ from an older woman trying to sell her small supply… sadly for her I was the only one that took her up on her offer… when all the women around the table saw me buying the bowl they started howling in laughter, yet as it turns out, not one of them had ever tried this delicacy, and even worse, not one of them would even have a taste as I offered the bowl around to each of them…

I had heard about tamilok from the lovely old guide who had taken me on a boat trip through the mangrove forest the day before, and he had said that not only did they taste good, but they were good for you (and an aphrodisiac!), and that local people had been collecting and eating them for a long time…

So what is tamilok? Well, they are actually these large, fat, slimy, white worms that live in the wood of the mangrove trees… apparently they poke themselves out a little in the morning, and the locals can then grab them and pull the whole worm out of the tree… I ate four or five of them, and most were about 6 to 8 inches long (very filling!!), and while I had been told that they tasted like oysters, I think that’s a bit of a stretch… they are served with a little vinegar sauce with some sugar mixed in which helps a little bit, but really, they just taste like big, fat, slimy worms!!